Look Ma, No Glasses

(Warning: A very lengthy but detailed post of my lasik adventure)

I remember when I was 15 or 16 and I came across a documentary on the tube showing the latest breakthrough to cure myopia. I watched as a patient is fixed with steel clamps on the top and bottom of his eyes to force them wide open. I gaped as the camera creeped in closer to the eyeball and the pupils dart restlessly. A laser is then directed at the pupil and burns it to, um, 20/20 vision. I was both amazed and horrified. The thought of never having to depend on glasses again filled me with longing; but the image of laser beams shooting into my eyes just couldn't convince me. 

And on the 8th of May, I was that patient with darting pupils tensely waiting for laser beams to fry my eyes. 

I've always wanted to do lasik, just too chicken to  plunge into it. The fear of losing vision on both eyes held me back and of course, who am I kidding- those laser beams! Still, what gets to me is the tiresome routine of putting in contact lenses in the morning; eyedrops during the day; and remembering to take them out before bed at night. Making sure I pack enough contact lens solution before my work trips and never being able to hand carry my bag into flights because my lens solution bottle always exceed 100ml. 

Long story short, Vinnie convinced me to do the procedure in India. Top doctors for a fraction of the cost. After much searching, I was recommended a certain Dr Rupal Shah from one of V's friends who is a doctor. Further digging revealed her publications and works; equipment used, and most importantly, she performs the more advanced form of lasik. 


(Which is the SMILE Lasik, or Small Incision Lenticule Extraction, is a non-invasive form of Lasik. A small incision is created on the cornea and a refractive Lenticule is then carved and removed to correct vision. 

A better explanation can be found here 


THE CENTER

We took an early am flight from Calcutta to Bombay, and then a 20-min taxi to the Lasik center. It wasnt easy to locate the center. Actually, scratch that. It should have been easy to find the center except for the fact that we didn't know what to look for. An unassuming apartment building of 4 levels- all housing medical-related centers. An eye center, a dentist's clinic... you get the idea.


The door to the dingy little lift opened, and a series of broken tune of a jingle greeted us mechanically. The lift took a few seconds before it launched itself upwards grudgingly, to the ire of Vinnie, hehe. I was surprised to note how small the reception and waiting room is, patients and their companions filled the area (8-10people). A sign outside the door requests we take off our shoes. 


Once I stepped in, a large glass partition on one section gives a clear view of the ongoing operation (!!!). I stared, transfixed on the screen showing a close up of an eyeball being prodded and poked with pointy instruments. Eeks!! Vinnie started making childish jokes about arming the lasers till I shot him the look. 



Forms filled and 20-30 minutes later (after I was sufficiently fed with images of eyeballs being prodded), I was called in to the Opthal Room. Here Dr Shah introduced herself and did some tests on me. They were pretty much run of the mill tests - reading increasingly small alphabets ("please open your eyes wider") until she proceeded to apply some drops on my eyes (which I presume to be numbing drops, they felt heavy immediately afterwards). With a little flashlight and another device, she did more tests and later asked me if I felt anything. I said not really and she said well the instruments were actually touching my eyes and that's the sort of sensation I will feel during the operation! Wow. 

We then sat down and Dr Shah gave us the run down of the operation. Basically, myopia is a result of the directed light being focused in front of the retina. A convex lens is placed in front of the eyes to properly direct the image onto the retina. Short term solution. 

What lasik does is to carve a lenticule within the cornea; which is then removed to permanently adjust the imaging. Wonders of wonders, that tiny bit of tissue (100 microns or so) is the bloody pea under the pillows!

There are 3 types of operation that one can opt for, depending on budget and lifestyle. 

The first is a conventional lasik - a flap is created, lenticule carved and removed, flap close and heal. Recovery time is longest with this operation, not to mention complications post lasik (rubbing of eyes accidentally can bruise the flap and affect healing).

Second, the Femto lasik, or bladeless lasik. An improved version of the conventional lasik without using a blade. A flap is still created though, but only a single laser is used for the flap and carving of lenticule. Rs 90,000 or USD1,400

Third, the SMILE lasik. The major difference with
SMILE is a flap isn't required. The lenticule is carved, and a small incision is made for the removal of the lenticule. Being the least intrusive with a small incision created instead of a flap, recovery is quicker, and complications are less likely. It is $500 more expensive than the Femto lasik, however, at Rs 125,000 or USD 1,950.

I've pretty much made up my mind beforehand and went for the SMILE lasik. Even then, I was a ball of nerves and overwhelmed by a sense of paranoia. What if the surgery fails? What if I lose vision on both eyes? Dr Shah was very comforting to talk to and she assured me that blindness is out of question - she has also performed the operations on her daughters. 


THE OPERATION 

A wait of about 30-40 minutes ensued with a small man dispensing eyedrops on my eyes every 10 minutes - these are the antibiotics. 

I was finally called in and was asked to remove my glasses. I sat on the chair just outside the laser room and a lady tucked my hair under a shower cap. It's now or never but never is not an option - I will never forgive myself for chickening out now!

I entered the laser room and was asked to lay on a flat bed that later revolves into the large laser machine. Heart thumping, my eyes were cleaned with alcohol and they covered my left eye. Dr Shah initiated a little chat to calm me down. What does my name mean, she asked. Awfully conscious of the spectators across the glass window, I said my surname meant an emperor, which earned an impressed comment from her (heh) then she asked me to focus on a green light under the laser. 

Then they fixed a metal clamp over my eyes to keep my eyes wide open. This was slightly uncomfortable but bearable. Dr Shah told me this will be the most uncomfortable part of the surgery. More eyedrops on my right eye and in a rush of panic, I asked how long the entire procedure is going to take. Dr Shah replied, only 10 minutes in total. 8 left now - it's been 2 minutes since I walked in. 

I was asked to focus on a white light next. Dr said this is going to be 25 seconds and asked me to count it down. Halfway through it I just kind of lost focus on the white light but the doctor told me to try and focus anyway. I was awfully tense but Dr Shah's calm voice was very comforting as she led me through. 25 seconds over, and I was revolved out of the machine. I was almost bursting from nerves but it isn't over. I felt a small pressure on my eye which I took to be a small instrument going under my cornea to remove the lenticule (gulp). There was no pain involved whatsoever. 

I could feel a small tissue being removed and as soon as it was removed, I could see the white light better. I didn't have time to marvel on this fact; my left eye was up next! It wasn't so bad this time around but the clamp felt more uncomfortable on my left eye. 

It was all done in a jiffy and when I raised from the bed, I even posed for a photo with the good doc. I could immediately see - not just shapes but some details - as if looking from slightly frosty window. Just slightly. I didn't need help to find Vinnie, who was in the waiting area. He looked at me and I looked at him. I asked for my sunglasses and he was surprised. He thought they were just prepping me for the operation, definitely did not expect the operation to have completed in that 10-15minutes! He's even taken some shots of the surgery via the broadcasting screen.


The eek factor here is off the roof.



My Sunday best

I was given a pill (must have been painkillers), and asked to wait for a bit. Later, we went into the Opthal room again and Dr Shah tested my vision again. Dr Shah was really happy with my operation, from a -8.75 Diopter to pretty good vision (to almost a level where I will be able to obtain an international driver's license)! She told me my vision will gradually get better in one to one-and-half months and that I was the best patient of the day (hehe, yes I just have to include that bit).  I was asked to come back again tomorrow for another check up. 


POST-LASIK

In the first couple of hours, my eyes sting a little whenever I try to see. I find it easier to keep them closed. We got on the taxi and stopped at four different pharmacies before Vinnie could find the right eyedrops for me (as prescribed by the clinic). Back at the hotel, I dozed and woke up every hour for the eyedrops. It is worth noting that I managed to get my hands on nasi goreng from room service to comfort myself after the self-induced stress. 

By evening, I was walking by the poolside, and even went out in the evening for dinner with Vinnie's friends. My vision was better, though it takes more effort to focus on my phone that day (yes, was ready on my phone and all). At night, my vision felt like I was looking through smudged lenses. I could see, but the lights seem exaggeratedly scattered. 

***

As I type this on my phone, it is Day 5 since the operation, and I think I am close to 20/20 vision. I am confident I can drive at night (halo vision or not, they weren't obtrusive). They do tend to get a little dry especially after waking up.

***


THOUGHTS

A few issues i wish had been different with the center. 

- were we given a map of the center, getting there would have been easier. Instead, we resorted to calling the center and then passing the phone to the driver. 

- if only the glass wall isn't there. That made me very nervous. However, in retrospect, I suppose that forces the staff to be extra careful and to put on a more professional appearance in full view of patrons. 

- it would have made things really convenient if the clinic dispenses eyedrops too. I was lucky to have Vinnie with me. If I was alone, post operation, and I STILL have to look for eyedrops? Not nice. 

Saying that, these issues are negligible to the operation in the scale of things. I'd recommend Dr Rupal Shah to anyone who wants to go through lasik. 


***


Was it worth it doing the operation in India? I'd say yeah, everything was handled professionally and I felt extremely safe throughout. A similar operation in KL would have cost double (MYR6,300 PER EYE or USD 2,000!!). That's shockingly expensive. I mean, I want the best for my eyes, but if I can get better rates for top doctors and reputable center, why not?

When I was reading up on the operation from lasik patients, the most common reaction was the exhilaration of waking up in the morning with a clear vision. For me, it was the opposite. Waking up with a good vision isn't an alien feeling, as I sometimes nap or fall asleep (short sleep!) with my contact lenses on and waking up with a clear vision isn't a new feeling. However, what struck me as pretty damn awesome was I DIDN'T need to take off my contacts now before I go to bed. 

Some say they wished they've done lasik sooner. I think I am in just the right mindset (wishing I don't have to deal with contact lenses or spectacles again) and the time is probably right for a safe, and relatively affordable surgery. 

It still baffles me that 18 years' of messing around with contact lenses and spectacles can be undone in 10 minutes. There's a real sense of elegance in the procedure: complicated surgery, simplified. 

Vientiane: Wat's Wat

After a leisurely brunch at Joma Bakery (which is the local equivalent to Starbucks cum Subway) at Vinnie's insistence, we checked into our short flight to Vientiane. All 30 minutes of it.

Checked-in to the hotel and out again, in search of pizza, hehe. What? We've had one too many Laaps and seaweed snack!





Just as warm, if not warmer than Luang Prabang - Vientiane has about 10 times more the population of LP. We explored the streets which eventually led us to a park where a night market is being set up.

It is undeniably THE place to be in the evenings. Locals of all age and sizes, some decked in exercise gear, wandered in the park. From a distance, a loud boom box blared with thumping dance music and a female's voice shouting in tune to the beats.

A large group of Laotian are gathered around three people on a makeshift stage (table tops) where they try to imitate the exercise moves of the instructors. It was fun to watch



Our guide picked us up at 8:30 the next morning for a treat of wats all day long!

Wat Si Saket, the oldest temple in Vientiane-





Swiftly followed by The Patuxay, Laos' answer to the Arc de Triomphe:






With less than $1, you can climb up to the top of the Patuxay. Throughout, numerous souvenir shops were set up, and graffiti filled the walls.



On the way to the Pha That Luang temple-

Every time we got into our van, we heaved a sigh of relief. We were quite tempted to quickly finish off the Wats so we could park ourselves in a comfortable air-conditioned cafe. What a life!



The Magical Dragons and the Enchanting Brooms


Offerings of incense sticks and flowers.

Pha That Luang, the icon and pride of Laos:







Enlighten was not me under a Bodhi tree.

To be completely honest, I wasn't quite as bowled over with the Wats as I had with other temples. I mean, don't get me wrong, some of the humbler temples have more personality to them. Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon almost took my breath away, with the majestic jewel-studded stupa and best of all, there is a constant activity: local people bringing lotus flowers and offering a prayer - I just don't see that scene as much in Laos: the involvement of the local people. There were more backpackers than all of the incense sticks put together.

That isn't just for the temples; even for the rest of the attractions, there is a feeling of detachment - as though these are merely placed for the enjoyment of the tourists. 

And finally, the Buddha park.


The Buddha pulling the nasty cricket monster's leg and thus saving the world from its evil.



And that, and this medium-cooked chocolate cake (molten lava cake) wraps up the Laos adventure. It was so good, we went twice for the desserts! 


Perfectly medium-cooked, oozing with dark chocolate, caramel sauce and vanilla ice-cream.

Le Silapa Restaurant
88 Rue Setthathilath
Vientiane.

Luang Prabang: Of Phousi, Monk-Hunting And Photogenic Waterfalls

Finally, Laos.

A country so often overshadowed by its more popular neighbours like Thailand and Vietnam - it makes for a refreshing destination to visit, minus the hoards of tourists. 

We were picked up by our guide, Johnny, someone we both debated till the end of our trip if he was a Mr or Miss, at the Luang Prabang Airport. Visa on arrival for Vinnie was speedy and organized, much better than the one in Hanoi. There, we waited for almost 40 minutes and even then, there were no definite signs of how long the wait was going to be!

Since we've stuffed ourselves with junk food at the Hanoi airport, we didn't feel particularly hungry when we arrived at dinner time. Upon check-in, we were told that the daily night market (nightly market?) is only a 5-minute walk from the hotel.


The night market is a far cry from the chaos of the Hanoi streets. We strolled through the market leisurely, greeted with an occasional smile or a welcoming gesture from the vendors. None of them prodded or pushed us to purchase - something I find particularly annoying when in Vietnam. 

Sandwich stalls lined the streets and as the night wore on, a baguette sandwich sounded like a good idea. Vinnie ordered BLT and the baguette lady prepared his while presumably her husband looks on. Then a bunch of tourists approached the stall as the lady finished Vinnie's sandwich and she went on to take their orders. The husband then took over and prepared mine. 

We collected our sandwiches and found a couple of little chairs to sit on. As we happily chomped on our baguettes we later duly noted the Baguette Husband idly scratching and rubbing his feet with his bare hands....  

Um, long story short, I spent part of the night and most of the next day producing mini baguettes of my own....




Wat Haw Pha Bang (At least, I think that's the one).



One of the dresses tailored in Hanoi


On the climb up Mount Phousi, fairly easy- less than 10 minutes to get to the top. What isn't easy, however, is the humidity and the heat in Luang Prabang after the pleasantly cool temperatures of Hanoi! It gets almost unbearable in the afternoon, with us preferring to seek shelter or a/c in cafes.



Shrine and temple at the top of the hill.


(Scroll down for sunset photos from the top of Mount Phousi, we went up again later that day for shots).


Step in for an authentic Laotian spa experience.


Most of the temples further required me to cover up with a shawl or sarong... as modest as my dress is... giving Vinnie the chance to squeeze in a snark or two.




Lunch by the Mekong River-



We ordered the Laap - a uniquely Lao salad of minced meat (in this case, beef), herbs, bean sprouts, spices with lime juice and chilli sauce. Great texture, very good with plain steamed rice!


Also stir-fried mushrooms with vegetables and a "spicy fish soup", which tastes uncannily like tom yum. I loved the spicy soup, there are ample oyster mushrooms (my fave) and onions in them but I couldn't stand the fish! Those were a huge disappointment. They don't taste fresh, ironically just by the Mekong River and leaves a nasty aftertaste.

Some really nice cafes on the main street - we sought the shade of one of them (and a place to deposit mini baguettes) - sipping iced coffee and licking chocolate off the spoon from the dessert.

And up Phousi again for sunset:



Panorama from phone at the top. Just 30 minutes before sunset and the small landing at the top of the temple started filling with jostling tourists. Humidity and crowd do not mix well!


Johnny, our guide, promised to arrange for us to view the alms-giving ceremony away from the tourist crowd the next morning. Vinnie opted to provide alms while I preferred to sit in the background to watch and take photos. It costs 60,000 kip for the alms and we agreed to meet at 6am the next morning.


The local women have already set up their wares and were waiting patiently when we arrived. (That's Johnny on the right, btw!).



The women will kneel when the monks approach, while the men can stand. The monks then break into a chant and the alms-givers slowly pour water on the pavement. The monks then proceed in a single file and the locals pinch some sticky rice into their wares.


Full of excitement and hope, the jedi.




I was surprised the monks were mostly made up of children or young teenagers. I was expecting old and bent variation....

We certainly got the experience of a quiet, locals-only alms giving, true, but we find the alms of 80,000 kip ($10) to be outrageously expensive. We thought the alms will consist of a meal of vegetables, sticky rice and some drink but imagine our surprise and disgust when it was all sticky rice and nothing else. 

We later found out the lady who prepared the sticky rice is family or wife - he never introduced her as one of those, though. We felt cheated and think that as an act of a tour guide, that reflected badly on the country!



It was just after seven in the morning when alms is over and because I'd requested Johnny to bring us to a nice khao-jit-pate (baguette with pate) place, he ushered us to a stall 10 minutes from where we were. "Very popular, I am scared they have no more".

And true enough, by 0730, the baguette ladies were wrapping the last of the baguettes to a handful of customers. Damn! If anything, I cannot stand the idea of missing out! I was determined to come earlier the next day, even if it means waking up at 6am!

So instead, we settled for this.....


Spicy Khao-Jit.



I didn't like the stringly things on the baguette. They tasted a lot like processed ham of some kind but otherwise, it was alright. Not as great as the famous-sell-out baguette, I'm sure!

We got back to the hotel, took a nap and Johnny picked us up again for a cruise down the Mekong River to visit the Pak Ou Caves which reputedly houses thousands of Buddha statues.



It was odd, though. Just us two, Johnny and the boatman occupying the boat:


A little OTT, I have to admit....



Lunch before the caves, laap again, spring rolls and papaya salad. A delicious fusion of the Indochine flavours.






This has got to be the cutest Buddha statue I've seen!

Having gone on almost a week full of Vietnamese/Laos/Asian meals, we needed a break from the culinary monotony. 

After a furious search on google, we found a famous pizza place in Luang Prabang. The catch is, we don't know if it's open that day, and it is pretty tricky to find. 


Getting there involves crossing rickety bamboo bridges! Some planks were missing and squeaking ominously. Look up and have faith....


Pizza Phan Luang! Some have even gone as far as reviewing this place to have the best pizza in the whole of Asia. We thought it's overrated, though. Don't get me wrong, the pizzas are awesome. They only serve pizza, nothing else.



Wood-fire oven baked pepperoni pizza, washed down with Coke. Thin crust and oozy woozy cheezy. Hits the spot, so good.

Phan Luang Pizza
50m up the road from Dyen Sabai across the bamboo bridge river crossing
Luang Prabang.


The next morning, I really did get up at six in the morning..... unlocked one of the bicycles we rented the day before, and cycled to the khao-jit pate stall (Hallelujah, they're there and they're still selling!). Grabbed a couple of the elusive baguettes before they get any ideas.


They have those annoying stringy processed ham thingies again! I fished them all out and  enjoyed what's left. Huge difference buying from a busy stall as opposed to a stall on a quiet night ie no mini baguettes. Was a little spicy and lots of ingredients (NOT the mini baguettes!) - minced meat in spicy gravy, a few types of sauces, some cucumbers and a few strings of cilantros. This was the fuel for my ride!

At first, cycling from the Luang Prabang town to the Kuang Sii waterfall seemed like a bright idea. Well, it was tough! We left at 7:30am in the morning with the crisp morning breeze waking us up from our slumber. The trail isn't easy (at least not for me) and there were quite a number of hills - but challenging enough to make me want to throw the bicycle aside and hitch-hike a tuk-tuk.

As gruelling as the ride was, it does give immense satisfaction and a sense of achievement as the entrance to Kuang Sii waterfall rolled into view. The reward is even better:



How photogenic is that?! Azure blue waters, cascading falls tinkling in the sunlight. I dipped my toe in and my whole body was engulfed in goosebumps - so cold! It was freezing for the first 5 seconds of each exposed skin to the cold water, but once you're in there and sort of water treading, you'll be grand.






Finally ended our last night in LP with a nice meal at Tamarind - a restaurant cum cooking school. The menu is extensive - it includes information on Lao food and how they are prepared. If you're heading that way, just be sure to make reservations. We wanted to dine there the night before, but it was completely full - we ended up having BBQ instead, which was also nice.



Luang Praband starters - a very starchy soup of vegetables and pork (meh, not wild about starchy dishes); crispy seaweed with sambal (yum); black fungus mushroom salad with water spinach (yum); and pork sausages (we went wild with those!).


Water buffalo sausages, pork sausages and a water buffalo with pork combo sausages. Heavenly! Tastes awesome with the deep fried sliced garlic and curry leaves.


More black fungus and water spinach salad, topped with chopped peanuts.


Chicken satays grilled in lemongrass and pandan leaves - fragrant and tastes well with sticky rice. Wasn't a particularly expensive meal too, with plenty of options to order.

Tamarind
Kingkitsarath Road
Luang Prabang.

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