Sweating It Out At The Hamam

I admit it, I am a kiasu when it comes to holidays. I *do* have a checklist of quintessentials. Be it the food, the culture, the sights... even the baths.

Enter hamam. 

Hamam - is a spa, or a public bath where the Turks go for a bath, scrub and a massage, and are usually segregated by gender. I was keen to try out the centuries-old tradition.

Since there is a hamam close to our hotel (and pretty much scattered everywhere else throughout the city),  V 'dropped' me off so he can dust his hands off from babysitting me.

The hamam was a small family-run business. A fan lazily creaked from the ceiling, a couple of middle-aged woman lounged and chatted, while a chunky telly was playing some telenovela. Furnitures look old and a little tacky. 

No turning back, now. 

A few options are provided - soap massage, oil massage, male or female masseuse. I opted for the regular hamam - just a soap massage, no oil massage.

Payment was made in advance, and I was shown into a small little massage room, to change out into a towel - and nothing else. 

One of the masseuse, a middle-aged matronly woman, led me further into the establishment. She showed me the sauna and indicated for me to bask in the heat for 20 minutes. So in I go, towel and all. It started getting hot, until it got almost unbearable. I contemplated. It's hot outside. I was already sweating earlier. And now this sweating business indoors isn't enjoyable. It'll be nice to soak in cool water. I stayed just a teensy bit longer, debated that thought and sweated for 5 minutes. Finally I got out and searched for my masseuse. 

I called out to her (from the entrance of the women's section). No answer. I spotted a young male washing towels in another room. He heard me and hollered to my woman. She came over, indignant. "Not yet -- twenty minutes!". I said, no, too hot. Okay, she said, and ushered me into a bath area, about 4mx4m large. 

There are 3 wash basins, and she indicated for me to take off my towel and demonstrated scooping water from the basins. Then she said: 10 minutes; and left.

For the record, I honestly tried being cooperative. I scooped some water, and rinsed. And I was finished in 1 minute!! The bathing duration could have been stretched further, had there been soap. But there wasn't! And let's be realistic, there's only so much water you can go on scooping!!

Yet again, I crept out and called for my masseuse. She came around, definitely with a hint of annoyance - "But 10 minutes!", I insisted I was done, and she said, ok wait, while she goes to change.

She returns in a pair of tank top and shorts and I was led into yet another room. In the middle of the room was a marble table top. She indicated for me to lie on top of the marble (with only my thin, wet towel on it - not comfortable, I assure you). She was out of my radar for a few minutes, and when she returned, just entering my peripheral vision: She had undressed - she is in her underwear.... and just that. Mammaries in full display, she scooped some water and unceremoniously splashed me.

It was a most strange sensation. I have never quite been bathed by a stranger before, but this, an adult being washed by a matronly woman - it does feel like my mother was giving me a shower.

Why do people pay for this experience, remind me?

With about 100litres of water splashed on me, she started with the soap bubbles. A long, thin cotton cloth (looks like a bolster cover) was soaked in soap water. She then blew into the pseudo-bolster-cover and transformed it into an airy sausage. She then squeezed the bolster sheet and a thick layer of soap foam covered me almost entirely. It was wonderful (for a change), light and tingling.

Then came the "soap massage". Armed with a loofah, she climbed over me and started scrubbing me vigorously. It sure felt like she was trying to remove my epidermis - I could feel myself being rubbed raw! From my neck, down to my butt and to my legs. She showed me the dead skin accumulated on her loofah (grimace), and then gestured for me to flip around, facing upwards.

This has got to be the most awkward feeling I've EVER had to endure. Me, staring at the algae-covered ceiling, determinedly averting gaze with the woman (and her hanging bosoms) while she hovers over me and scrubs my armpits, breasts, and well, everything else.

Once that was done, I was asked to sit upright, and she started shampooing my hair and briskly massaged my scalp. Rinse, and a dry towel handed to me. I accepted the towel gratefully.

The hamam experience is finally completed by lying face down on a heated marble slab (10 mins, please), presumably to relax a bathee. I finished my 10 mins of hot marble relaxation, got up, got dressed and anxiously left the hamam.

The entire experience left me feeling like a baby - raw and red, but clean - reborn again.

Istanbul: An Asian Girl's Guide

I was going to have a week-long break for the Eid holidays - so we were brainstorming how and where we should spend it. Europe remains a favourite during the summer (what's there not to like??) - but I reckoned one week is too brief to properly enjoy and fully utilise the time there (what with jet lag and all). We debated Philippines for a bit - for a spot of diving, though it isn't at the top of my bucket list.

After throwing ideas back and forth (over a few months, mind you), we finally settled on Turkey. Both feeling quite excited as we've not been, and so exotic! 

.....So.... the obvious subsequent events to take place is a multitude of dangerous incidents bound to change our minds, right? And that, is precisely what happened. Deja vu!

Case 1: Planned a fun weekend in Phuket. Red shirt protests happened just the week before our trip. Curfew announced at parts of Thailand. We stubbornly proceeded. Everything was normal in the touristy part of Phuket. Holiday fun, check.

Case 2: Bought tickets to Hong Kong for a few days. Coincides with Occupy Central. Luckily, it was a peaceful protest and other than some roadblocks, nothing else hampered our trip.

Case 3: Turkey. She upped it a few notches for us though. A month before our trip, there was a bombing in Istanbul where 11 people died - claimed by ISIS. Then, just days prior to our departure for Istanbul, another ISIS bombing was reported at the Ataturk airport. Messages poured in from friends who asked us to reconsider the trip. Mum was best of the lot - instead of the usual barrage of nags, she reminded to go shopping for souvenirs, and specifically to purchase hand-painted plates for myself, hehe. 

Despite all of the bad rep surrounding Turkey, we made up our minds to visit. And we are really, really glad that we made the final call.

Turkey is one of the most beautiful countries I've visited. More accurately, it is unlike any other city I've been to. The diversity of its food, the grandeur of its monuments, the friendliness of its people, the beautiful handicrafts... I could go on and on.

When we first arrived, we were surprised to see how empty the city is. Not that we were complaining. Long queues to the Hagia Sophia? Didn't happen to us. Jostling with the crowd in Grand Bazaar? Shopkeepers were practically shoving freebies into our hands to get their first sale of the day. It's great for us shoppers, but it's also sad to see the locals having a hard time to get by. Saying all that, I do wonder if it was all for show? Make a sob story and bank in on the sympathy of the tourists. I guess I'll never know.

The slow tourism was a temporary respite. Soon after the Eid, the streets were filled with people again, with an almost tangible festive cheer in the air. We realize later, that the locals usually leave the country for a holiday overseas over Eid.

Anyway, jibber-jabber aside, I am here to give you some nifty tips 'n' tricks. Your holidays in Istanbul won't ever be the same again! *wink wink*


Itinerary
Our itinerary of 8 days are made up of 4D in Istanbul, 3D in Cappadocia, and one final night on the Asian side of Istanbul - Beyoğlu.

From Kuala Lumpur, I flew in to the Sabiha Gökçen International airport via Abu Dhabi (that rascal actually tricked me into thinking he is flying through Dubai and suddenly plopped on the seat beside me at the gate in Abu Dhabi! <3)



Dresscode
Before the trip, I searched on the Interwebz for some clues as to how to dress. Some were most conservative, advising to cover up; whereas some were more liberal - dress like how you will in any other European cities, they said.

Well, I beg to differ. In, say, Paris or London, I could put on a pair of shorts and a tank top - nobody bats an eye. In Istanbul, as far as major cities go, the local Turks are dressed conservatively. Some with headscarves, mostly in long skirts or pants and covered up. The only instances of shorts or sleeveless tops are worn by foreigners - and even then, they are the minority.

Digressing, we were on a food excursion to Asitane, somewhere on the outskirts of the city. To get there, we had to pass though residential area and the quieter neighbourhoods. On that day, I decided I will wear shorts (I had been wearing long dresses the past few days, but after noticing some people wearing shorts, I thought I'll be more comfortable in the summer heat). Throughout the walk, I started to become acutely aware of how my exposed legs were drawing attention (I actually thought I heard an old, geezy man letting out a sigh). Feeling increasingly conscious, I withdrew an emergency scarf from my bag and transformed it into a makeshift knee-length skirt.

My advice, go conservative. Respect the local culture and cover up! This means, wear something that reaches your knee at the very least, and a sleeveless top as your maximum exposed limbs. Cleavage - don't even go there!

To enter the mosques, you need to be fully covered - long sleeves, long pants, the whole works - and a headscarf to cover your hair. No biggie if this slips your mind, cause at the entrance of the mosque, scarves and long robes are provided at no extra charge for visitors.

These are some of the thoughtful little things I like about Istanbul. A far cry to Milan: we were queueing to enter the Piazza Duomo, I got a bit of a rude shock when I was told that my dress was too short (a couple of inches above the knee) and was refused entry. A bunch of opportunists then shoved an armload of colourful scarves in my face, hoping to cash in on my need (but we did not enter eventually).

Our trip was free and easy: we do try to plan our routes so we don't double up too much. It is not an easy feat, what with the various foodie spots we were keen to go!

The majestic Hagia Sophia. I stepped in and felt my jaw drop to the ground. And this with an entire wall covered in scaffoldings - the awe that would have inspired otherwise...

Strays lead a good life here. Bowls of cat food and water are put out for these ungrateful creatures. Dogs too, wander freely, even though it is a predominantly Muslim country. Something you'll never in Malaysia, sadly. Quite a mystery it is, with the vast number of strays in the city, we've not come across poop! (Paris, learn!)

And the Hagia Sophia at dusk...

Chomping on a simit - a Turkish bagel with sesame seeds - from a street side peddler. Various snacks are being sold by peddlers: roasted chestnuts, grilled whole corn (my fave!) and other baked goods.

The Blue Mosque:

The tall ceiling but low chandeliers are quite a sight. I can only imagine the hall filled with men in white robes.

And moving on to the Topkapi Palace.

We spent a good few hours exploring the palace/museum - do go and visit! My favourite is the kitchen quarters - studying how preparations were made, and the changing wares used through the times. 

An epic quote from the palace: "During the Ramazan, the royal family refrained from using gold wares. Instead, yellow plates are used due to their resemblance to gold".

The Harem - such luxury!

Next stop: The Grand Bazaar. I am in love with this market!!!

Markets are my absolute favourite haunts in any city. Of course, not all of them are pleasant. Some can be downright nasty, while some a total ripoff before you even step in. In Vietnam, we were harassed and practically bullied into buying goods! I've had some shopkeepers who had rattled to me in Vietnamese when I said I'll come back later. In contrast, Laos, the people are friendly without being pushy. European markets are more relaxed, some of the sellers look like they can't be too bothered whether you purchase or not!

The Grand Bazaar (and some photos may be from the Spice Bazaar) is a feast for the eyes, ears and nose. Intricate and high quality handicrafts, I have to say. I go all mad over the hand-painted ceramic bowls and plates! I bought 2 plates and a bowl - wish I had gotten more now! Then there is the copper coffee pots, pepper grinder, colourful glass lamps, ceramic wares, a billion types of spices, sweets... plenty to keep you busy poking your nose in!

Suleymaniye mosque

This mosque seems to be more low-key compared to the Blue Mosque. We sat for a bit at the tourists' section (the praying area for Muslims is a separate section), while enjoying the cool breeze. 

Speaking of weather: the summer is warm, but not humid. In the shade, the breeze is a delight. But the sun is harsh, and can be uncomfortable. Pack a hat and slap on sunscreen!

All covered up for the mosques:

Exploring the Taksim Square in Beyoğlu. The streets are vibrant: live music, food vendors, decadent sweet shops (which we frequently popped in), antics of the ice-cream sellers..... there is constantly something going on!

We also did the Bhosphorus cruise, heh. I know, it all sounds very touristy, but hear me out on this. Some of the sights aren't possible to view through land, just like this photo below.

On the cruise, we were ushered to the top deck with at least 30 other tourists, including small children.  We had to quickly grab our plastic chairs and parked them strategically for best viewing point (without having raindrops splashing on us, oh yeah, it rained). Loud, dance music blasted on the boat (strongly reminded me of the Andaman's Green Ocean, which blasted Indian dance hits, hehe) and occasionally, the tour guide speaks over the PA system in Turkish. Too funny!

Aaaand, there you go. By now I'm betting you're exclaiming, but there are no food photos! Blasphemy!

Indeed, that's cos Turkish food deserves a post of its own. That'll be up next!

Siem Reap - Recaptured

Woot! It's been ages since I've penned any "recordings"! Blame that on a less-than-glamourous lifestyle of an aspiring baker/pastry chef......  On the other hand, I do have a number of drool-worthy photos. Which isn't going to help with waist size.

Sooo.

It's been a record of sorts - the longest I've been in one place. Usually, it's a different country every few weeks - not that I complained, mind you. I loved the idea of being whisked from one foreign city to the next. It's been 6 months now acting all normal, just another student's life. I think it's safe to say that I've had my fill of a stable, predictable few months. 

A short break to Siem Reap is in order:

It was hot and muggy - off season. The upside is there are less tourists to be jostling space with. After a long nap (we departed from KL at stupid o'clock), we headed for a leisurely lunch before proceeding to temple-raiding around the Angkor Wat, Angelina Jolie style.

Temple ruins without much air flow on hot, muggy days are a sweaty combination - but great photo ops :)

Our strategy this trip was to get up really, really early (4:30am), trudge over to the temples, get some fabulous sunrise photos, trudge back to hotel and sleep through the afternoon before emerging sparkly-eyed for the evenings.

Outcome: this very pretty shot of the Angkor Wat in sunrise hues and a new moon just perched above the iconic temple.

Grand total of temples raided: 2.

Sorry to disappoint, we did spend a lot of time in the Angkor Wat, clicking away. A fact Vinnie lamented once we've set foot onto the Ta Phrom.

He refers Ta Phrom as the more 'exciting' temple. I was almost quite assured that this has nothing to do with Angelina Jolie.

No Recordings of Life is complete without its signature food photos, right? There ya go.

Lunch on our first day in Siem Reap - received good reviews online but it was too forgettable that I could not remember the name of the restaurant.

Flavours washed down to suit Westerner's tastebuds. Meh.

Spring roll and papaya salad starter.

Amok - was nice but lacking that je ne sais quoi?

Chicken green curry - was okay but not the best. I think we'll stick to local, roadside restaurants next time ;)

Damn shame, both times I was in Siem Reap was during the hot season. I do need to come visit in a more pleasant weather. Let me know what you think of the shots!

Chapter 5: Anchor Down

I can't believe it, it's been AGES since I've posted anything on this almost-defunct blog. I've got tonnes of photos and just have been tremendously lazy to edit and process them. Well, baby steps...

Soo.... three years ago, I wrote about plunging into a career offshore... and loving every bit of it. Everything was fresh and new; my learning curve increased exponentially; and there were some great people I've met. More importantly, I felt like I've discarded the rat race. Back in Singapore,  everyone walked the same, dressed the same and kiasu the same. I felt like a clone, programmed the same way as everybody else. I quickly lost the thrill of life, the only glimmer of hope lies in the next holiday plans.

On the other hand, working onboard discards the hour-long commute to the office. Instead, I embarked on a 36-hour transit of ferries, trains, planes and helicopters to work. But once I am on the ship, the office is a mere minute away from my living space.

The job enabled me to visit some truly exotic destinations, places way off the mainstream holiday-goers list. Places I will hesitate to book a holiday to - but would love to head back because they are truly untouched by tourist hordes.

All good things come to an end though - two years later, I was starting to feel stagnant.

And now, instead of QCing the seismic layers in our data, I am checking out the layers in a freshly baked swiss roll; and instead of writing a lengthy report on the QC results, I am meticulously glazing a moist vanilla and chocolate butter cake...

Anchor down, oven heat on! Stay tuned for more mouth-watering treats.